First round of tank sealant session was riveting the stringers to the skin.
I did not deburr the holes with the rotating deburring bit but used a file, sandpaper and SkotchBrite to remove the burs and scuffing the area that will be covered by the tank sealant.
Reason why I didn’t want to use the rotating deburring bit is to avoid a small countersink that could increase the risk of a leak.
Next I used Acetone to clean the area, only wiping in one directing and drying the wet area with a second wipe and a new paper towel.
To protect the rest of the skins I used some painters tape:
I found some info on VAF that there are 4 seals to make:
Safety first: my workshop has a big fan that ensured sufficient ventilation when working with Acetone and tank sealant and I used eye protection and nitrile gloves!
Next I covered the skin with sealant, pushed the stringer in and removed it again and then smeared the sealant on the skin and stringer so that there was a 100% cover of sealant. Then I put the stringer back and first inserted rivets in every other hole. I put a bit sealant on the rivets before inserting them. Next I inserted clecos in every remaining holes:
Gravity helps when the skin is laying flat on the workbench.
Tip: clean the clecos with Acetone while the sealant is still wet!
Up until now my experience is that working with tank sealant isn’t too bad.